“La Atolería” by Tierra del Sol
Tuesday, October 31
In Oaxaca there are two drinks that play a big role in the everyday life of residents and tourists. Firstly, the liquor “Mezcal” made from agave plants and secondly, hot or cold cocoa drinks.
At first I was surprised that cocoa and hot chocolate play such a big role in Oaxaca and that you can buy cocoa drinks on every corner of the city. But if you think about it, it makes total sense. Mexico has a long tradition of growing and consuming cocoa and cocoa drinks. Already the Olmecs around 1000 BC. BC knew the cocoa fruit and had a word for cocoa in their language. The Mayans (around 300 AD - 900 AD) also made a hot, unsweetened drink from cocoa beans, which was so valuable that it was reserved exclusively for the nobility. The Aztecs (around 1200 AD) used cocoa (and the cocoa drinks made from it) not only as a luxury food, but also as a means of payment.
Cocoa was known and valued in large parts of Mesoamerica. It was grown in the climatically suitable areas and cocoa beans were traded. An important trade route ran through Oaxaca, connecting northern Mexico with the south and the Yucatan Peninsula. To this day, cocoa is mainly grown in the states of Chiapas, Tabasco and Oaxaca. In the markets in the city of Oaxaca you can find stalls selling bags of roasted cocoa beans or even freshly ground ones.
The best drinking chocolate I ever drank was in the “Atolería” in Oaxaca. A small café that is part of the “Tierra del Sol” restaurant. The “Atolería” is so named because it specializes in “atole” — a hot, thick drink made from milk or water, corn flour and spices. In addition to Atole in various variations, you can also find the best hot chocolate ever here. Traditionally in Mexico this is prepared with water and not milk. If, like me, you've only drunk cocoa with milk, this combination doesn't sound entirely convincing. When prepared correctly, “Chocolate al agua” is incredibly creamy and delicious and if you didn’t know it, you wouldn’t know that it was only made with cocoa and water. During my two months in Mexico, I only ordered chocolate al agua because I liked it even better than the milk version. If you travel to Mexico and love cocoa and chocolate, you should definitely visit Oaxaca!